Having been off shellfish for the past pregnant nine months, Sinéad Deegan chowed down on oysters at Dublin’s brand new chi-chi seafood restaurant, Super Miss Sue. But were they any good?

Super Miss Sue (SMS) has finally set sail. Restaurant number four for John Farrell (Dillingers, Butcher Grill, 777) has something for everyone (who likes fish!). There’s SMS Cervi, which is a retro chipper open until 3am, a chic fish cafe/oyster counter, and a 70-seater restaurant and gin bar (which will open downstairs next Spring). As with all Farrell’s premises, the fit-out is impeccable and has brightened up the dull ‘n’ dirty corner at Dublin’s Drury Street car park and Stephen’s Street.

From the old cinema canopy signage in the chipper to the chipped, reclaimed tiles in the toilet (which looks like a freezer room from outside), to the vintage wood and glass oyster bar with gilt lettering, the venue is bang on brand. The cafe is narrow, with tables looking out onto Stephen’s Street or seats at the oyster bar, but it doesn’t feel cramped.

We started with bubbles (served in vintage coupe glasses) to celebrate the arrival of our daughter, Polly, who at six days old made a very well-behaved dinner guest. The menu is straightforward – starters, oysters, fish from the cervi, fish from the plancha (flat grill), shellfish platters and sides – if you like fish you are certainly in the right place.

Some sourdough with jalapeño and honey butter and a half dozen oysters to start, please!

There was a choice of six types of oysters – Carlingford, Connemara Rock, Fine de Roche, Tara, Umani and Special – we opted for a mixed half dozen. The waiter knowledgeably explained which was which (to the undiscerning eye they looked similar), and having been shellfish deprived for the past nine months I made light work of them.

Tom Dorley joined a guest at a neighbouring table (beat you to it again, Tom!) and ordered the Gambas. Ten larger than life grilled shrimp arrived on a plate for him and I started to get food envy. As we were debating whether it would be rude to ask him to share one, our main courses arrived.

Polly’s Papa had smoked haddock from the cervi, I had cod from the plancha and we shared two sides. The smoked haddock was the meatiest, moistest fillet of fish I have ever tasted, with a smoky after-taste and a delicious, delicate crisp batter. If this is the quality of fish from the cervi, I predict queues out the door. It was served with peas, tartare and authentic chipper-cut chips.

My grilled cod, cooked with pinenut, raisin and orange butter was good, but with Tom’s Gambas and the divinely smoked batter haddock on plates within easy reach, the food envy kicked in again. The sides mixed well with both dishes – salt-roasted beets with carrot and ricotta and grilled pear, navet (aka turnip!), and salsify.

The chipper was busy as we were finishing up – with options like fish finger or chip butties and battered morsels (cockles, mussels and clams) it’s a perfect pre or post-pints quick-food option. The bill came to E75, including tip, drinks and desert, and we will most definitely be sailing again soon.

Super Miss Sue, Units 2-3 Drury Street Car Park, Dublin 2, 01-6799009, www.supermisssue.com